Copper valley being installed as well as hip slate.

Well....Here it is so far.....

Finally nailing slate on my dormer. Made this template for the corner of the hip which had me a bit confused. Used some cant strip, crazy glue and a spray bottle of water to help bond it quickly.

Gonna put these snow guards on the front dormer roof and these on the main roof. Stainless steel is actually better, and a wee bit cheaper, but I like the look of copper. I'm going to put them along the entire house to protect the built in gutter from getting slammed with ice/snow when it slides off.

Been playing with some patterns. Think I may cut the 14x20 in half and make 2 bands of fishscales. Gonna start at the front of the dormer. Do the sides of the dormer and then the built in gutter and work my way up. That's the plan anyway.

With all the snow I decided to practice making my V shapes gutter. I'm gonna use flat lock seem joint and not lapped. The pictures attached show how I tried working the cant into the copper. It was recommended that I not do that since I can add the cant afterwards as a strip of copper. Just got a new slate book called (drumroll...) The Slate Book by Brian Stearns, Alan Stearns and John Meyer. It's a great book and you can buy it here. The book has a great recommendation where they use a wood cant attached to the copper with copper straps. Great idea, and I wont have to buy more copper!

Hmmm. What to do. I have my slate. It's salvaged Buckingham and the size is 14x20. With the 3.5" headlap (not shown here) the slate is looking a bit narrow. A bit too horizontal/rectangular for my liking. I may do the dormers with a slightly different look. Maybe cut them in half and use the back side of the slate so I can make a pattern. Should have bought another sq. of slate. Still it's a beautiful slate and should last quite a long time. Same slate that's on the Smithsonian!

Want to work cant into copper at 12" from the bottom of the V. Copper runs up the roof at 17."Thinking I might lap joints instead of flat lock seam and use copper rivets. I do like Joe Jenkins idea of using screws to create the holes needed while it also holds the copper in place for the rivets.

http://www.traditionalroofing.com/TR6_solder.html

Just look at F3

Also great pics of a corner being done in copper by Sphere here:

My Fine Homebuilding Forum Link

Right side of house 315sq feet

Back side of house 273 sq feet

Side with dormer 300 sq feet

Front side with dormer 300 sq. feet

Safe with 13 sq. of slate??

Entire hip roof is "basically" square

Front and rear of roof is 26ft at eave

Left and right of roof is 30ft at eave

Hips N' Ridges Vermont Slate Senior Slater From Skillman,
Slate Install Links

Stuff I'll need.

Rear V pitch.

Size of slates. Headlap appears to be 3"

Using a Sheet Brake - Fine Homebuilding Video

Using a Sheet Brake - Fine Homebuilding Video


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Was looking at this and wondering if I could do the same thing only that my built in is in a v shape.

Shame I finished the shakes on the dormers. Thinking they will have to come off when I put on the new slate roof so I can install the copper flashing

Great info for TIPS & TECHNIQUES FOR SOLDERING COPPER here!

Finally ready for roof. I've had one roofer come out who says he's thinking modified bitumen might be best for this part of the roof. I'm going to do it in copper instead.

Need to fix the ends of all of the sills.

Once I finish that soffit I'll replace the wood with this stuff for the bottom of the soffit. I like wood, except for the fact that squirrels can chew through it. Wish I used it for the crown moulding up at the top. It's wood, and it's pretty crappy. It's glued at several sections, instead of solid. Live and learn.

Finally rounding the corner. I have the dormers done and I just have to finish the soffit on the right side of the house. I couldn't resist ripping the aluminum siding off while I was up at it replacing the soffit. I have my work cut out for me replacing the shingles that were ripped of. The shingles curved out near the bottom with a nice crown moulding at one point. I'm going to try and replace that. Should look nice when I finish one of these days. I'm going to sand and stain and fill all nail holes on the shinles that are there now with the same stuff I used on the dormers. The stain is so thick, it feels like latex paint.