I'd finished the roof a while ago, but didn't get to taking pics of it complete-so here they are. I've peeked my head out during a strong storm and the gutter is doing great even with that little slope. The cool thing about such slight slope is that the gutter stays cleaner. The wind takes the leaves and sticks right out. Still, I'll be adding a bit more slope going forward.

Installing Azek beadboard and Crown. The stuff is really great-nice and thick. The only problem I'm having is installing 18' lengths by yourself gets a bit hard since it's so flexible.

The sidewall photo is new solid cedar clapboard. No finger jointed.

This post has nothing to do about roofing, but I thought it was such a good site I thought I had to post it.

I was thinking about direct hot water and came across EZ Tankless. Really great site. If only all appliance manufacturers had sites like this.

The fact that you can exhaust through the wall makes it a no brainer when I have to replace my hot water heater.

They even have models for use outside that only require a hose 2 D batteries and gas from a tank that is used for a barbeque.

http://www.eztankless.com/video-photo-gallery/

Though the shingles for the dormer are next on my list, I've just started to remove some of the broken clapboard to replace with new. Here's a great video staring Tom Silva doing just that.

Going up the other side.

Progress. Trying to decide if I'll slate the dormer or not. I have lots of scrap slate to play with but cedar shakes just might look better.

Snow guards will be added as I go. I'm using copper here, but stainless steel is a better choice since it's harder and cheaper. I just like the look of copper. Or for a bit more you can get those made of brass.

I haven't seen too much instruction on installing this type of snow guard so I've posted it here. There are videos for installing retrofit however.

When installing you must have enough of them to take the weight of the snow. Otherwise they will bend. Make sure to contact the manufacturer.

PDF here for dressing up a vent pipe in copper. You can also view attached.

I'll be starting my slate next and found some great info. in this video by Joe Jenkins. Joe is amazing, and if you need slate information I highly recommend looking at his site. If you have questions about your slate roof he offers consultations.

My next step will be adding the cant strip. Chalk a line 4.5 inches from the top of the copper sheet for the bottom of the cant strip. Chalk a line that's 1.5" more for the bottom edge of the starter slate.

Slate overlaps copper 6"

Installed new copper gutter on side of house. It's 8' long flat lock soldered joints. Decided to add 4" downtube in the center as opposed to the ends. The nice thing is that it is just below the window possibly making it easier to clean out. Man it's cold out there- had to keep switching my irons.

Dormer is finally done. Took down the dormer scaffold over the weekend and I'm looking forward to working on the copper gutter. Marked lines for my slate as well. Also took a pic of the next dormer to be done. I think it's TIME!

The top of the valley being installed. Screw the thing in place then replace with rivets. Works great. Next time I'll just rivet then take it down so it's easier to solder the joint. You can lay it flat instead of soldering on a slope. Then install with nails on the edge.

Copper valley being installed as well as hip slate.

Well....Here it is so far.....

Finally nailing slate on my dormer. Made this template for the corner of the hip which had me a bit confused. Used some cant strip, crazy glue and a spray bottle of water to help bond it quickly.

Gonna put these snow guards on the front dormer roof and these on the main roof. Stainless steel is actually better, and a wee bit cheaper, but I like the look of copper. I'm going to put them along the entire house to protect the built in gutter from getting slammed with ice/snow when it slides off.

Been playing with some patterns. Think I may cut the 14x20 in half and make 2 bands of fishscales. Gonna start at the front of the dormer. Do the sides of the dormer and then the built in gutter and work my way up. That's the plan anyway.

With all the snow I decided to practice making my V shapes gutter. I'm gonna use flat lock seem joint and not lapped. The pictures attached show how I tried working the cant into the copper. It was recommended that I not do that since I can add the cant afterwards as a strip of copper. Just got a new slate book called (drumroll...) The Slate Book by Brian Stearns, Alan Stearns and John Meyer. It's a great book and you can buy it here. The book has a great recommendation where they use a wood cant attached to the copper with copper straps. Great idea, and I wont have to buy more copper!

Hmmm. What to do. I have my slate. It's salvaged Buckingham and the size is 14x20. With the 3.5" headlap (not shown here) the slate is looking a bit narrow. A bit too horizontal/rectangular for my liking. I may do the dormers with a slightly different look. Maybe cut them in half and use the back side of the slate so I can make a pattern. Should have bought another sq. of slate. Still it's a beautiful slate and should last quite a long time. Same slate that's on the Smithsonian!

Want to work cant into copper at 12" from the bottom of the V. Copper runs up the roof at 17."Thinking I might lap joints instead of flat lock seam and use copper rivets. I do like Joe Jenkins idea of using screws to create the holes needed while it also holds the copper in place for the rivets.

http://www.traditionalroofing.com/TR6_solder.html

Just look at F3

Also great pics of a corner being done in copper by Sphere here:

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